Eastern European Adventure, Day 1 – Travel Day

It was a bit odd starting a trip at 3:00 in the afternoon; but the Denver to London direct flight leaves at 7:30 pm. Or it’s supposed to. We had a wait before we could take off. Once in the air they were able to make it up and then some. Thanks to a tail wind that sometimes reached 105 MPH we arrived in London an hour early. That is, we arrived in London airspace. Heathrow was backed up, so we had to circle for a while waiting for a landing slot. Once we landed we were told there wasn’t a gate available, so more waiting. They wound up parking us out on the tarmac and taking us into the terminal by bus. In the end we were a few minutes later than our scheduled arrival time. But we didn’t mind because we had several hours till our next flight.

We traditional British pub. It was crowded and noisy, as airport places usually are; but the food was good. We opted for pub standards, fish & chips and bangers & mash. It was all hot and tasty. We got our flight on to Vienna. It was a smooth flight and we arrived just around sunset.

When we went to claim our bags, however, my suitcase was there but Van’s wasn’t. The woman at the lost luggage office told him that since my bag was there his probably was too. Sure enough, it turned out the baggage handlers had just put it in the wrong place. It was quickly brought to us and we went off to find our car to take us to the hotel.

It was a short ride, and were soon checked in. We decided to have dinner at the hotel restaurant, which proved to be a good choice. I had “Wiener Tafelspitz”, a dish of beef boiled with vegetables that was served with fried shredded potatoes. Van went for his old favorite, grilled ribeye steak with fried potatoes.

It was all great. We then turned in an got a good night’s sleep.

Changes

Flexibility and unflappability are essential qualities for world travelers; and this week we have required both of them. We had two last-minute changes sprung on us and had to scramble to alter our plans.

The first change came when the hotel we had booked at the Vienna airport sent us an e-mail saying that although we had reserved a room months ago, our reservation was now canceled due to “an internal error”. The reason we had booked a room at that hotel was due to the timing of our flights. We are flying from Denver to London Heathrow and then on to Lviv, Ukraine via Vienna, Austria. The flight from London gets in too late in the day to connect with the flight on to Lviv. So, we opted to spend the night at the hotel in the Vienna airport. All we would have needed to do is walk across the parking lot to the hotel, spend the night, and then the next day go back to the terminal to check in for our onward flight. Now we have had to find another hotel to spend the night in; and because it won’t be on the airport property, have to get shuttles back and forth. Fortunately, it’s not a very busy travel time, so even on such short notice we were able to find another hotel near the airport. And the good news is all the other hotels are much cheaper than the airport property. So even though it will cost us another €40 in shuttle fees, it will still come out less than the original total.

The second surprise came from Seabourn concerning our Holiday cruise. We were scheduled to sail out of Valparaiso, Chile and end in Buenos Aires, Argentina. We made plans to fly down two days early, and booked a hotel in Valparaiso which offered a shuttle service that would pick us up at the Santiago airport. We could then get to the cruise port easily on embarkation day. Well, we got a message from telling us that the cruise will no longer start in Valparaiso; but instead will sail from the city of San Antonio, about 60 miles to the south. That’s all well and good; but we already have our hotel and transfer booked. San Antonio has fewer hotels available, and we don’t even know where their port is, since we haven’t been there before. Seabourn assured the passengers that they didn’t have to worry about changing their plans….if you had arranged your airport pick up and transfer through them. If you had made your own plans, as we did, you were on your own. It presented us with a major inconvenience. We think we have figured out what to do. We are going to try to keep our reservation in Valparaiso, with the transfer from the Santiago airport, and book a car service to drive us down to San Antonio on embarkation day. At least, that’s the plan. We’re still waiting to hear back from the car service. Chile is in the next time zone east of the US east coast, so 3 hours different from Mountain time. But with luck, that will work out and require the least disruption of our plans. Valparaiso is a beautiful city, so if we can spend some time there we will. Otherwise we’ll probably stay in Santiago those two nights.

Travel woes

I love to travel. I mean I *really* love to travel. Given the chance, I don’t know that I’d even have a permanent home. Or wouldn’t go there more than once or twice a year. But that said; there are some downsides to traveling. Some of them, for me, are:

1. Internet access.

Here at home I’ve got good, fast, reliable Internet access. We have a high-speed line that’s always on that we don’t share with anyone but each other. But once we step out the door we never know what we are going to find. Access varies so much from town to town and country to country it can be frustrating. Many good hotels offer wired access, (I always travel with a CAT 5 cable); but now most have gone for the cheaper option of WiFi. That’s fine, except the signal you get can really vary depending on where you are in relation to the access points and repeaters. Politics can also have a big impact. We have traveled to countries where the Internet access was blocked or heavily filtered. Even seemingly innocuous sites can be replaced with a pop-up that says “This website violates our country’s standards”. Not much you can do about that.

On ships it’s a whole other story. I feel a bit spoiled even complaining about this. I mean, you’re on a boat in the middle of the ocean and you’ve still got access to the whole world that’s almost as good as if you were on land. Ah, but that “almost”. Obviously ships use satellite connections. Bandwidth on satellite is expensive and limited. And you’re sharing it with all the other people on the ship. Even on the little boats we prefer that means 400+ other users. When we started traveling with computers it wasn’t so much of a problem. Only a few of our fellow travelers even brought a laptop along, and most didn’t use it for much more than checking their e-mail. These days everybody has their phones and tablets, and they want to use their free time Skyping or chatting with their grandbabies on Facetime. The ships usually ask that people don’t even try to stream music or videos, and some go as far as blocking Netflix and YouTube. And satellite links can be a bit flaky. Weather affects them. So does topography and your location on the planet. Since the satellites are mostly in equatorial geosynchronous orbits the signal drops off as you go farther North or South. In the fiords of Norway or Patagonia good luck getting a signal at all. It can all be a bit annoying.

2. Plumbing

I really like my plumbing. Over the years we have made it exactly as we like it. We put an oversized walk-in shower in the master bath. It’s got six wall-mounted body jets, an overhead shower head, and a hand wand to get any places those might have missed. It’s like a car wash. It’s also got good, steady water pressure. There’s a thermostatic valve that keeps the temperature steady even if the supply drops, like if someone flushes a toilet. Back when I first started to be a bit unsteady on my feet Van installed grab bars all around, so I’ve always got a handy bar to hold on to or lean on. In that shower I can get clean in a few minutes, and always feel secure. Or I can stay in there for as long as I like, since our building has a pretty much unlimited supply of hot water.

I also love our toilets. We have found ones that are just the right height for us, so they are quite comfortable. They now also have bidet attachments. I can’t say enough good things about those. I don’t know why Americans never took to the bidet. There is nothing better for getting really clean. Also, we are fortunate to have three bathrooms. I once read that one of the biggest factors in how happy people are with their homes isn’t the neighborhood or the square footage; but the ratio of bathrooms to the number of people. Well, with three bathrooms for two people, we’re pretty happy.

Alas, when we travel we never know what we’re going to find. Showers range from the basic to the beautiful to the bizarre. We’ve had tiny stalls we could hardly squeeze into. We’ve had some that were the size of whole rooms. And designers have some pretty strange ideas of what makes a good shower. They tend to love marble. Yes, it’s lovely to look at. But add a bit of water and most of it becomes as slick as ice. The same for slate flooring. One shower we had was made to look like a cave. The walls were all rough-cut stone and the floor was slate. It was about 8 feet across and 10 feet deep. There were no curtains or door. The water just splashed everywhere. With nothing to grab onto I had to have Van come and give me his arm so I could get out without slipping and falling. The designers also like glass. Which, if you’re big and unsteady is a constant worry. We have had a few where efficiency ruled. One bathroom in a very nice Russian hotel was just a small room that was totally tiled. The shower was in one corner and the toilet was in another. We wondered at first why the roll of toilet paper was not next to the toilet; but up on a high shelf. The first time we showered we found out why. With no curtain or other enclosure the whole bathroom was basically the shower stall and the sink and toilet both got wet. Anything you wanted to keep dry had to go up on the shelf, and even that wasn’t a guarantee. So if someone needed to use the toilet after someone had showered, they first had to get a towel and dry it off and then remember to grab the paper off the shelf before sitting down.

Although toilets around the world vary widely, we have mostly had the good luck to not encounter many “Asian” or squat-style ones. They can be quite the acrobatic trick for those not used to them, and especially for us big boys. They tend to be less problematic for the residents of countries where both sexes wear garments other than Western-style trousers. Even the more familiar fixtures come in a bewildering array of sizes, shapes, and configurations. Sometimes figuring out how to flush them can take several minutes. Sometimes finding one can also be a challenge. The American mania for “en suite” bathrooms is spreading; but we have stayed in some very nice older hotels in Europe where the bathroom was shared and down the hall. It seems odd to us to stay in a 5 Star hotel and share a bathroom when here in the US even rundown roadside motels all have private bathrooms. At the risk of sounding spoiled again, sharing one bathroom is a bit of an unaccustomed bother for us. And it’s all the worse when we stay with our many kind friends who mostly have only one bathroom in their homes.

3. Beds

Once again, we are spoiled. We have a big full-sized King bed. We have lots of room to spread out and roll around and not disturb each other. The bed isn’t too high or too low. And our bed is piled with pillows. We both like lots of pillows. Our bedroom is, as someone once described it, “cool, quiet, and dark as a tomb”. We don’t do anything but sleep in there. No TV, no stereo, no computers. And nothing has lights on it. The phone doesn’t light up when it rings. Our clocks have a button on top that lights them up for a few seconds when you tap it; but otherwise are dark. The window has a heavy multilayer honeycomb blind that has a light blocking foil layer. We have a couple of fans to keep the air gently circulating that also provide a nice “white noise” to block out any outside sounds. It is, for us, the perfect place to sleep.

Big beds seem to be another American taste the rest of the world doesn’t share. Many new hotels and many countries are embracing the big bed. The one we had in Dubai was bigger than ours at home. But for the most part, the rest of the world makes do with less. Usually the largest bed you will find is what we would call a “Queen”, or even a “Full”. And sometimes we have wound up squeezing into ones smaller than that. At times we have opted for two singles instead of trying to sleep on top of one another. Even those can be a challenge. More than once I’ve fallen out of a bed that was too narrow for me to even turn over in.

Pillows are usually in short supply. In land-based hotels one of the first things I do is ask for more pillows. I can usually get two extra. On the ships it’s sometimes more of a problem; although on our favorite line Seabourn I have put “Extra pillows” in my file as a permanent request. Some hotels have nice pillows; but many offer something that’s about a foot wide and thin as a maxi pad. In Europe the problem is feather pillows. Neither of us like them; but in Europe feather or down pillows are considered the height of luxury. The more expensive the hotel, the more likely you’ll find feather pillows. These days you can usually request non-allergenic pillows instead. But then you’ll probably only get two of them.

Throw in an array of flashing, blinking lights so numerous the room looks like a Christmas tree; blinds that don’t block light or in some cases don’t even close properly (I always bring a bag clip along. They work great to hold curtains shut), and the unavoidable strange sounds in an unfamiliar place and sometimes sleeping while traveling can be challenging. Fortunately we are usually so tired at the end of a long day of sightseeing or so jet lagged from flying that we can fall asleep anyway.

4. Chairs, towels, and other assorted things that just don’t “fit”

One of my favorite things is my chair. My “comfy chair” is a big Lazy Boy rocker-recliner in black leather. Over the years I have shaped it to fit me like a glove. It’s so comfortable I often nap in it. In fact, it can be a challenge to stay awake sometimes when I’m listening to an audiobook. I really like the rocking motion. I find it quite soothing. Unfortunately out in the world rocking chairs and recliners are scarce. Hotel rooms almost never have them. I can understand that. Rocking chairs take up more space than a straight chair, and recliners are expensive and would probably not hold up well to the amount of use they would get in a hotel room.

I buy the largest bath towels I can find. The “bath sheets” I get are mostly at least six feet long and three feet wide. Some of the bath towels we’ve encountered were barely more than hand towels. They can also be in short supply. One of the great things about the ships is that they service the cabin several times a day. But in most hotels the room gets serviced once a day. So once you use your towel you won’t get a new one until the next day. That can be a problem if you’ve been out running around all day and want to take a shower before dinner. You can call for more towels, but it’s best not to be too much of a pest. Few places have the wonderful thin, dry air we enjoy here in Colorado. Here when I hang a towel up it dries quickly. In many of the places we travel, and of course at sea, it’s so humid a wet towel could take days to dry.

Desks are somewhat hit or miss. Many hotel rooms these days have them; but many still don’t. Often we are left using a small table or smaller bedside nightstand. And trying to type with a laptop balanced on your knees leaves much to be desired. We both have fairly small notebooks to travel with, Asus Eee’s, which have a small footprint and don’t need mouse space since they have built-in touch pads. But still, trying to fit both of them on a tiny table that wasn’t meant to be a desk can be hard. Even when there is a desk, there’s always only one chair, so we have to take turns. There have been occasions when I couldn’t get all the posting done that I’d wanted to do, just because I didn’t have a proper workspace available.

Electrical outlets are often another problem. More and more newer hotels and ships are taking notice of the fact that these days people travel with bunches of things that need to be plugged in. But we have stayed in some otherwise very nice hotels that only had one or two outlets in the room. They usually either have the TV/refrigerator/only lamp plugged into them, or are next to the door for the maid to plug a vacuum into. Plugging in computers, tablets, phones, camera battery chargers, etc. can be a challenge. (I always take a compact power strip along and a short extension cord for those times when the only outlet is behind a dresser). And we are fortunate that neither of us uses a CPAP machine. I’ve heard tell of someone having to beg the hotel for several extension cords so he could plug his machine into an outlet in the hallway, the only one available. Fortunately it’s becoming much more common these days for rooms to have an outlet on both sides of the bed, up above the nightstand. Many newer hotels have outlets up above the desk or sideboards so you can easily plug in your phone. But in much of the world multiple outlets remain a luxury.

Please don’t get the idea that I’m complaining. When you travel you have to expect that things won’t be the same as home. That’s really the whole point of travel, isn’t it? Seeing the wonders of the world really is worth enduring any number of minor inconveniences and I’ve seldom regretted any of it. But in the end, as Dorothy said, “There’s no place like home”.

Anticipation

Two weeks from today we set out on our next adventure. This time we are exploring Eastern Europe, and almost every place we are going it will be our first time there. That’s becoming harder for us to do.

From Denver we will fly to London, and then on to Vienna. Due to the timing of flights, we will need to spend a night there before we head onward. The next morning we will fly to Lviv, Ukraine to begin a week-long tour of the country.

We will be touring with Mir Travel, which is a company based in Seattle that specializes in Russia, Eastern Europe, and the “Stans”. They can arrange anything from a night at the Bolshoi Ballet to a camel trek along the old Silk Road. They do both small group tours and individual trips. We are going to have a 7-day tour of Ukraine with our own guide, who will be with us the whole time. Since it’s just us, we can tailor the trip to what we are interested and go at our own pace. We are going to visit three of the main Ukrainian cities, Lviv, Kiev, and Odessa.

Lviv is a city in Western Ukraine. It is said to be the cultural capital of the country. I understand that there is a strong Polish influence, since it belonged to Poland at one time.

Kiev, of course, is the capital and spiritual heart of the country. It was the capital of the Kievan Rus, the first federation of the Slavic people and the ancestor of Ukraine, Belarus, and Russia. It’s an ancient and beautiful city.

Odessa is a port city on the Black Sea. It was founded by a decree of the Empress Catherine the Great. Today it’s Ukraine’s third largest city, and a major trading and transportation hub. It’s also a popular seaside resort destination.

After our week in Ukraine we will fly to Budapest, Hungary. We have been there before, but never for long enough. This time we are going to spend nine days there. We are going to start the last part of our trip there, but wanted to have time to really get to know this beautiful city better. We have booked several private walking tours. We are going to try something different this time. Since we are staying so long, we have booked an apartment instead of staying at a hotel. We found one that’s right in the center of the district we wanted to be in, and overall it will cost a lot less than a hotel room. As luck would have it, it happens that the Budapest Bears are having their weekend event during that time, so we will have an opportunity to get to meet some of the local guys as well.

After our time exploring Budapest, we come to the main reason we are going there. We will join an RSVP river cruise that will spend 7 days on the Eastern Danube River, sailing from Budapest, through Hungary, Croatia, Serbia, Bulgaria, and Romania. The last three of those we have not visited before. The trip will end in Bucarest, Romania. We’ll spend a few days there before flying home on October 23rd.

RSVP does all gay cruises, both ocean and river cruises. They are one of the original gay travel companies, and we have been traveling with them since we first got together 30 years ago. One of the things we like about their cruises is they book the entire ship. You’re not just a small bunch of guys in a huge crowd of straight cruiser. All the guests on the ship are gay. That makes such a difference in the atmosphere aboard the ship. You can relax and be yourself, without worrying about offending anybody. Also, gay men are a whole lot of fun to travel with. This will be RSVP’s first time on the Eastern Danube. What the locals will make of a boatload of gays is anybody’s guess. But I imagine they will welcome us warmly; as everyone always does in Europe.

The cruise will be on Emerald Waterway’s ship Star. It’s a fairly new ship, launched in 2014. She looks very elegant and comfortable.

It will be a small group, only 180 or so. Quite different from the thousands on the newer ocean ships. But that’s one of the best parts of river cruising. It’s a much more intimate experience. You travel at a slower pace, dock right in the center of towns, and always have the riverside scenery to enjoy. We have cruised the Western Danube from Budapest; but this promises to be a different experience.
You might recall that this cruise is a replacement for one we were supposed to take last year. That one was to be on a brand-new ship. Unfortunately while she was being fitted out a fire broke out. As she wasn’t ready to sail yet, the fire suppression system hadn’t yet been hooked up and the fire gutted her. There wasn’t anything else to do but cancel the cruise. RSVP gave us the opportunity to book this year’s cruise before they offered it to the public. I don’t know how many of the passengers who were supposed to be on the canceled on booked this trip. I guess that will be a good topic for dinner conversation.

This isn’t going to be a very long trip for us, just a month; but we are going to pack in quite a lot of interesting places. We have made all our arrangements. Now it’s just down to packing our bags and gear. That, and enjoying the pre-trip excitement, which is always one of the best part of any trip.

Advance Planning

One of the realities of travel these days it that one is forced to make plans far in advance. If you wait until even some months before booking a trip you will find it either full, or all the good seats, cabins, etc are taken. We have booked cruises two years in advance, before the ship had even been built. Quite a leap of faith. In fact, once that didn’t work out for us. We booked a river cruise with a group, and they were using a brand-new riverboat that was yet to be built. A few months before the cruise, while the ship was in dry dock being fitted out, one of the workmen started a fire. Because the ship wasn’t yet ready, the fire suppression system wasn’t yet operational. The fire spread rapidly and gutted the vessel. It had to be scrapped before it had ever sailed with paying passengers. We got a full refund, of course; and we are going to do the same trip with the same group this fall on a different line.

So, today we made some bookings for the last part of this year. Before we join the group for the river cruise on the Eastern Danube River, from Budapest to Bucharest, we are going to do a land tour on our own and visit Ukraine. This is a country we have long wanted to see; but it’s not really “on the way” to anyplace we’ve been before. We will be traveling with MIR, a travel company based in Seattle that specializes in Eastern Europe, the Baltics, the Balkans, the “Stans”, and Mongolia. They have some truly amazing journies, such as traveling the length of the old Silk Road, even sleeping in yurts in some places. We won’t be doing anything that ambitious. We will fly to the Ukrainian city of Lviv, then on to Kiev, then finishing in Odessa.

We will have a car and driver and/or a guide to show us around. It should be a fascinating look at this country. We’ll then fly to Budapest and spend a week there before the cruise. We are really looking forward to getting to know that city better.

The other trip we began booking today was our Holiday trip. This year we are going someplace cool for a change. Really cool. Cold, even. We are going to cruise with our old friends Seabourn around South America and to Antarctica. The 24-day cruise will leave out of Valparaiso, Chile and sail “around The Horn”, spend 5 days in Antarctic waters, stopping as many places as it can, and then visit South Georgia Island before heading up to Montevideo, Uruguay and finishing in Buenos Aires, Argentina.

We have done this cruise before, many years ago. In fact, it was our first trip with Seabourn. But back then they didn’t sail down to Antarctica at all. We are looking forward to seeing its incredible beauty. Spending the Holidays with Seabourn has become something of a tradition for us. They surpass even their usual outstanding service with extra touches like putting Christmas cookies in the cabins and serving special meals for Christmas and New Year’s Eve. It’s a great way to spend the Holidays, and we’re looking forward to it again this year.

Cuba final thoughts

The Cuba trip was a wonderful time. The cruise and excursions all went without a hitch, which let us focus on the country. And the country was fascinating.

The people of Cuba are so warm and friendly. Everywhere we went people seemed genuinely glad to see us and to show us their country. I hope this lasts; but it’s bound to fade some once tourists become more common and then more of a nuisance.

People waving to us and taking pictures of our ship as we sailed into Havana harbor

Some things were as we expected. Yes, there’s obvious poverty. Cars and buildings show their age and need lots of repairs. We had a chance to see inside one of the State-run bodegas where people receive their monthly ration of staple foods such as rice, beans, sugar, oil, and coffee. There wasn’t a lot on the shelves; and our guide told us that while the food is free, the ration isn’t enough to last the month.

Inside a bodega in Havana

People need to supplement it however they can. These days there are other stores, private stores where people can spend their extra cash on things they need or want. Since everyone is guaranteed a job, most people can do this.

A street market in Santiago de Cuba

Although there’s a common image these days of the streets of Havana full of beautifully preserved and restored classic American cars, those are mostly run as taxis for tourists. Most common Cubans can’t afford a car, or have one of the very cheap Chinese or Russian cars. I was told that although they are more affordable, they only last 5-8 years, so they aren’t well liked. Small motorbikes and bicycles are much more common. There are also buses, but these days people prefer to take private trucks than have been modified for passengers. They are crowded; but more reliable.

Sometimes you just have to make do

On the other hand, things were not nearly as grim as we had been lead to believe they would be. Although the buildings and streets were old, they were kept quite clean. We saw people sweeping and painting everywhere we went. And the people are so vibrant and full of life. There’s music everywhere. Bands play on the street corners and in the parks, every cafe and bar has live music and everyone loves to dance. The Cuban people have an irrepressible spirit that is infectious.

Band on a street corner in Santiago de Cuba

One thing we didn’t have was much talk about politics. There were a few things about how the Cuban State system works that our guides explained to us. But there was never any sort of “Ours is better than yours” talk. Mostly the guides steered clear of politics and talked about history and culture.

Sometimes there were cracks in the mask. At the Plaza de la Revolución in Santiago our guide said that it’s used for large public gatherings like political demonstrations. The women sitting in front of me spluttered “Political demonstrations? I thought you weren’t allowed to have political demonstrations!” Our guide smiled and said “Pro-government political demonstrations. There are no other kind”. Then she said, more quietly, “We are free; but not that free”.

There is no doubt that if our government doesn’t reverse things and we continue to relax and normalize relations with Cuba then many more Americans will be visiting in the coming years. This will inevitably change the country. Whether that will be for better or worse will have to be seen. The cash inflow will certainly be welcomed. But I hope that the pressure of US tourism doesn’t end up turning it into “Havanaland”, a caricature of its former self. It will never be what it was in the 1930’s, but it may become something even better.

Santiago de Cuba

Our last day in Cuba was very full. We started at 7:30, partly because there was a bigger ship due in port, and our ship had to move out into the bay to let them dock at the pier. We opted to do the full day tour with lunch, which was over 8 hours all told. It was partly a bus tour; but there were also some walking tours included.

We started at the heart of every Cuban city, the Plaza de la Revolución. Sanitago’s is impressive. Also known as Antonio Maceo Revolution Square, it’s dominated by a 16-meter tall statue of hero Antonio Maceo on horseback. He was known by the nickname “The Bronze Titan” both for his skin color and because of his strength. It’s said he recovered from more than 25 war injuries over the course of some 500 military battles. The statue is surrounded by 23 huge machetes sticking up from the grass. There’s also an eternal flame to honor the martyrs of the Revolution.

Next we charged up San Juan Hill. Well, we didn’t charge. More climbed at a slow walking pace. There’s a large memorial park on top of the hill, which was built by the US, so all the signs are in English and Spanish. There are monuments to the various groups who fought here, the Cubans, the Americans, and the Spanish troops. Some of the trenches have been preserved and some of the cannons and guns are on display.



From there we drove out to the Castillo de San Pedro de la Roca, or known more informally as Castillo del Morro. This is the big fortress that guards the entrance to the bay. It was built by the Spanish in the classic style they used all over the Caribbean, with massive stone walls and distinctive guard towers at the corners. The views from there are wonderful. Because it’s a major tourist attraction there are stands set up along the approach to the fortress where artists and vendors sell handcrafts, t-shirts with Che on them and cigars and rum.





Our next stop was the Santa Ifigenia Cemetery. Until recently it was most famous for the tomb and monument to José Martí, the “Poet of The Revolution”. His monument is a huge tower of sandstone with Art Deco female figures on the corners. Uniformed soldiers stand guard at the entrance.

Since December 4, 2016 the cemetery has become famous for a newer resident. Fidel Castro’s ashes are interred here. In keeping with his wishes, his monument is simple. Its inspiration was taken from a line from a José Martí poem, “All the glory of the world fits in a single kernel of corn.” People have had trouble seeing the monument’s resemblance to a corn kernel, though. Almost from the beginning people have been calling it “La piedra de Fidel,” (Fidel’s stone). We watched the changing of the guard, which happens every half hour. As one would expect, there was much goosestepping by uniformed soldiers.





The rest of the cemetery is also impressive. There are many above-ground tombs of wealthy Cuban families, including several members of the Bacardi rum family. They mostly feature white marble and life-sized statuary. It reminded me of La Recoletta cemetery in Buenos Aires, only smaller.







From the cemetery we went to lunch. We at at a “private” restaurant. In the Cuban sense, this means someplace that is privately owned, as opposed to government owned. This particular restaurant’s owner has American friends as partners. They put up the start-up money, and he manages the restaurant. He also lives upstairs, so it’s safe to say he’s a “hands on” manager. The dining rooms are in several rooms and the patio of the ground floor of what was a house. The food was typical Cuban fare, served “family style”, with plates for every 3 or 4 people. It was a lot of food, and it was all delicious.



We started with glasses of chilled fruit juice, such as orange, pineapple, or guava. This was followed by platters of beautiful ripe fruits including papaya, guava, banana, and pineapple. After we had enjoyed the fruits, the mains started to arrive, starting with the starches. Big bowls of rice and beans were accompanied by mashed yellow sweet potato and fried green plantains. Then the meats. First was a dish of slices of roast pork in a savory sauce. Then sauteed fish and bowls of shrimp in a red sauce. It was all wonderful, and a bit more than we all could manage to eat. For dessert they brought a very rich, creamy flan. It was one of the best meals we had in Cuba.











After lunch we drove around the town a bit, seeing some of the landmarks. Then we had our “cultural exchange” stop for the day. We visited a neighborhood music school.

Here anyone can come and audition, and if the professors feel they have a talent, they get free training for an instrument or singing. They only catch is that because the school isn’t government funded, they can’t provide instruments. The students have to somehow provide their own, and often have to share. Given their hardships, the school has done an amazing job. Many of their students have been good enough to go on to the state music schools and become professional musicians. Several of the students performed for us, (even though most of them looked quite nervous).





It was great to see people with such determination doing so much with so little.

The last stop was some free time to walk around the main plaza.

Parque Cespedes, as it is known today, is the standard Plaza de Armas found at the center of all Spanish Colonial towns. It has been renamed in honor of a Cuban planter who freed his slaves and was one of the first to declare independence from Spain. It’s a pleasant park that follows the usual pattern of Cathedral on one side, City Hall on the other, what had been the Governor’s House, and townhouses of the wealthy on the other sides.

The Cathedral is quite modern looking, as it has been rebuilt several times due to fires and such.

By this time the temperature was nearing 100F and I was feeling tired, so I opted to stay on the air conditioned bus. Van and most of the others went out with the guide for a walk around.

After spending about 30 minutes the group returned to the bus and we went back to the port. This time we had to tender back to the ship, but we got lucky. After we got through security Van and I were able to get some of the last seats on the waiting tender and go out right away.

Once everyone was back onboard we sailed out of Santiago harbor around 5:00, with the now customary mojitos on the Sun Deck. The ship then began making its way slowly back to Ft Lauderdale. We would spend the next two days at sea.

Trova House

Trova House

Because we overnighted in Santiago de Cuba we were able to go out for an evening of music. We went to the nightclub Trova House, which is just off the main Plaza.

Trova (the “v” is pronounced “b”, so it’s “troba” as in “troubadour”) is the traditional music of Oriente Province, or the eastern end of Cuba. It blends Spanish traditional music styles with influences from African music and American Jazz. A proper trova group must have at least a couple of guitars and a lot of percussion. It reminded me of Spanish and Portuguese music, only more upbeat. (It usually didn’t sound like the singer was dying of a broken heart).

The group that we listened to is called Sones De Oriente.

While they played a pair of dancers danced for us, while we sipped mojitos and cuba libres.



Los Osos de la Trova

The music is infectious, with strong, driving rhythms. It’s hard not to feel like dancing. And of course, as always happens at these evenings, they did get people from the audience up to dance. Some of them did pretty well.



It was a fun night out, and a good introduction to real Cuban music, which is so big a part of the soul of the country.

El Cobre

We arrived in Santiago at noon, which is late in the day for city tours. So they offered an excursion to El Cobre, which is a town up in the Sierra Maestra mountains outside of town. It was a copper mining town. The largest open copper mine in the country is in the hills around the town. The mine closed in 2001, so today the town mainly lives by tourism.

The main attraction there is the Basílica Santuario Nacional de Nuestra Señora de la Caridad del Cobre which is the shrine of the Virgin of Charity.

This image of the Virgin was credited with saving three sailors lost off the coast. The three men were lost in a storm and prayed to the Virgin to save them. Suddenly the skies cleared. They spotted something floating in the water, and when they took it in it turned out to be an image of the Virgin Mary. The men took the image to the church in Santiago; but it kept disappearing. So apparently she wasn’t happy there. It was moved to another church; but the same thing happened. Then a young girl was picking flowers on top of a hill and said she saw the image there. So they built a church on the top of the hill. She seemed to be happy there and hasn’t disappeared since.





The Virgin of Charity has been declared the Patron Saint of Cuba. She has been viewed by three Popes, all of whom have brought her gifts such a gold crown and a bouquet of white roses made of porcelain.

The cart used to carry the image in processions.

The street in front of the church is lined with stall selling bouquets of yellow sunflowers for offerings and handmade souvenirs.



It was a short trip, but it was nice to get up higher where it was a bit cooler and less humid. We got back to the ship in time to rest a bit before dinner and our night out.

Cienfuegos

We had a nice visit to the town of Cienfuegos, which is on the south side of the island. Unlike other Cuban cities, this one was settled by French settlers coming from Louisiana. You can see the distinctive French influence in the houses. One funny thing was about the name. We had a number of people who knew just enough Spanish to parse the name as “100 fires”. The guide explained that the name is a family name, and isn’t translated literally. It was named after the first Governor General of the province. Yet several people asked her about the fires. It would be like a tourist visiting Pittsburgh and asking to see “the pits”.

The harbor is very calm, almost like a lake, because there is only a narrow channel from the sea into a large bay. There were barely any ripples on the water as we sailed in and docked.

We had a tour of the town, showing us all the highlights. This area used to be a popular resort destination before the revolution, and there are many beautiful old houses and other buildings. Today they are small hotels, restaurants and such.

This house was abandoned by it’s original owners who fled the Revolution. Now it’s a deluxe hotel.

This is the Yacht Club. Sailing on the calm, protected bay is still a popular passtime.

This is the house where Castro stayed when he was here. He preferred the then brand-new Mid-Century Modern to the old mansions.

This hotel was built by Hilton and was just about to open in ’59. So the State took it over and held it up as a shining example of the progress of the Revolution, etc. Except that it was built before they took it over.

This was the casino built for the hotel. Today it’s a restaurant.

At the center of town is their Plaza de Armas, which is also called Jose Marti Square. There is a large statue of him in the center. On the sides are the City Hall building, the Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Purísima Concepción, and the Teatro Tomás Terry. It’s a very pleasant square, with trees and fountains and a bandstand.





José Martí is known as the “Poet of The Revolution”, and is more revered than the generals. Nearly every town has a José Martí Plaza, and there are busts of him everywhere. His emotional appeals were much more moving to the common people than the political arguments.

We were supposed to tour the theater; but we weren’t able because there was a special performance for the school children. However, we did have a concert by the town’s chamber orchestra. They played old Cuban classics as well as some songs they have “updated”. They were quite good.

Cienfuegos is a lovely town, and I’m glad that we got to see this part of the island.